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布邊(赤耳)牛仔布 Selvedge(akaimimis/redline) Denim 布边(赤耳,红边)牛仔面料

14.10.2016

 

 

(For English version, please refer to the latter part/简体参阅后半部)

牛仔服裝象徵真我直率,粗獷耐用,狂野豪邁甚至在某個年代標籤為反叛不羈。

對於今天牛仔愛好者不再滿足於那些跨國公司大批量生產的牛仔服,更願意花時間搜尋經典牛仔褲來裝備你的衣櫃。作為靛藍熱血,你不囿於那些僅重複古典輪廓的復刻版牛仔褲。並渴望細緻了解50年代牛仔褲由不同的織物,使用不同的染料著色工藝,並進行不同的前處理以及後加工...這些是彰顯個性風格重要關鍵。

受益於牛仔服的"探古遺風",帶布邊牛仔面料最近強勢回歸在復古工作服風格。日本品牌痴迷慾重塑那個時代完美的牛仔褲,並以嶄新和獨特的方式演繹布邊牛仔布。舉例日本某個獨立的牛仔布商改造和服手動織機織造布邊牛仔布為其客戶縫製個性張揚的牛仔褲,將差異化價值推向極致。

沒有任何其他服裝有著牛仔褲之標誌性地位。牛仔服裝永遠不會脫離時尚,他們將在可預見的未來繼續超越其他衣著趨勢。

為了解織造廠如何生產帶布邊牛仔布,我們首先需簡單講解關於紡織織造工藝基礎知識。

直至20世紀50年代,幾乎所有的牛仔布都在有梭織機上織造,該類機器使用稱為梭子的木製裝置通過在織機的兩側之間往返地將緯紗填充。這形成所有邊緣處留下一根連續緯向紗線,因此織物邊緣能自行綁結而沒有任何散碎線頭。

二戰後對牛仔布需求的日益增加迫使廠商採用大規模生產技術。 淘汰有梭織機 (不知是巧合或堅持,大多數有梭織機得以在日本被保留下來) 改用片梭,劍桿和噴氣引緯等的無梭織機 (因棉紗的親水性,噴水織造技術不適合牛仔布) 大大增加生產。就引緯率而言,無梭織機能夠實現15倍的生產能力。更高的速度,更佳的效率,門幅更寬的牛仔布,更切合服裝的裁片縫製。所有這些讓成本大為削減。敬請留意:所有的無梭織機只能形成假布邊 (紡織術語:非自我綁結的布邊)。然而,由有梭織機織出的牛仔布確有著其獨特的紋理風格。

布邊牛仔面料復興所面對的挑戰是:業界僅剩寥寥可數的有梭織機在當值。

因此,捲起褲腳管口秀出裡面外側縫線止口上布邊的細緻條紋(赤耳),很快成為“達人舉措”。

今天牛仔布邊的意義是什麼?人們會說,挽起褲管意味著“我在乎”。堅持要“赤耳丹寧”的布邊是對傳統織造工藝的執著和致敬,是理念認同昇華出的服飾符號,更是對文化的探索與沉澱。

牛仔布和牛仔服文化的故事:(赤耳)布邊的秘密,仍在繼續:

意大利特意佳 (Trinca) TNV型-有梭織機,適用於技術用布,牛仔面料和環狀織物。

採用傳統有梭引緯一脈相傳的機理並予以最前沿的能量環充織造技術,成就無瑕疵品質織物的同時只需極低的能耗。

符號象徵:我們傳承傳統,但織物品質絶不妥協同時更加關懷周遭的環境。

特意佳有梭織機---承先啓後,繼往開來…

 

Denim symbolizes authenticity, workwear, the wild west and at certain stage even rebellion. 

For denim enthusiasts today will not happy with those multi-national corp’s mass production jeans, then bound to have taken the time to seek out the vintage denim jeans for your wardrobe. Being the blue blooded, you are not only satisfying with those remake jeans which only repeat the classical silhouette. And keen to go into the details of jeans in the 50’s were made of different fabric, coloured with different dyestuffs, and undergo different pre/after treatments…those are an important key to achieving an authentic look.

Thanks to the “heritage movement” in jeanswear, selvedge denim has seen a recent resurgence alongside vintage workwear styles. Japanese brands obsessed with recreating the perfect jeans from that era went so far as to reweave selvedge denim in new and interesting ways. Say one independent Japanese denim weaver modify the hand loom of kimono to weave selvedge denim for customize jeans. Which redefine the value of nuance.

No other garment has the iconic status of jeans. Jeans are never out of fashion, and they will continue to outlive other sartorial trends for the foreseeable future.

In order to understand how manufacturers make selvedge denim, we first have to understand a little bit about textile weaving in general.

Up until the 1950s, almost all denim was woven on shuttle looms where a fabric weaving machine which uses a wooden device called a shuttle to fill in the weft (latitude wise) yarns by passing back and forth between both sides of the loom. This leaves one continuous yarn at all the edges so the fabric self seals without any stray yarns.

The demand for more denim after WWII, soon forced mills to adopt mass-production technology. (What a coincidence that most of those shuttle looms were kept in Japan) The introduction of shuttleless loom with weft insertion by means of projectile, rapier and air jet (water jet looms technically impaired for denim weaving due to hydrophilic nature of cotton), which drastically increase the production. Shuttleless looms capable achieve the production of denim at 15 times than those shuttle loom in terms of weft insertion rate. Higher speed, better production efficiency, possible of wider denim width, which better suit for garment manufacture. And all these let to cost cut. All shuttleless loom can only manage to form the false selvedge (textile term: non-self binding selvedge). Nevertheless, denim woven by shuttle looms processes the unique texture.

Now the problem with this selvedge denim revival has been finding the selvedge fabric to make the jeans, because there are so few factories in this industry still keep using shuttle looms.

Hence the small detail on the upturned cuff to show the little selvedge stripe inside the jeans, on the outerseam (akaimimis/redline) quickly became one of the “things to have”.

What selvedge means today? One will say that turning up cuffs to show the little selvedge stripe means “I care.” The selvedge in “selvedge denim” is a question of weaving, but it’s also a question of symbolism. And became a cultural signifier.  

the story of denim and jeans culture: The secrets of selvedge, which goes on with Trinca type TNV- shuttle loom for technical cloth, denim and endless fabrics. Weft insertion with the traditional shuttle and refined with most cut-edge technology of energy recharge to enable the very low energy consumption. That show our respect to tradition and at the meantime we care our environment.

Trinca shuttle looms --- live the legend with substantial development….  

 

牛仔服装象徵真我直率,粗犷耐用,狂野豪迈甚至在某个年代标签为反叛不羁。

对於今天牛仔爱好者不再满足於那些跨国公司大批量生产的牛仔服,更愿意花时间搜寻经典牛仔裤来装备你的衣柜。作为靛蓝热血,你不囿於那些仅重复古典轮廓的复刻版牛仔裤。并渴望细致了解50年代牛仔裤由不同的织物,使用不同的染料著色工艺,并进行不同的前处理以及後加工...这些是彰显个性风格重要关键。

受益於牛仔服的"探古遗风",带布边牛仔面料最近强势回归在复古工作服风格。日本品牌痴迷欲重塑那个时代完美的牛仔裤,并以崭新和独特的方式演绎布边牛仔布。举例日本某个独立牛仔布商改造和服手动织机织造布边牛仔布为其客户缝制个性张扬的牛仔裤,将差异化价值推向极致。

没有任何其他服装有著牛仔裤之标志性地位。牛仔服装永远不会脱落时尚,他们将在可预见的未来继续超越其他衣着趋势。

为了解织造厂如何生产带布边牛仔布,我们首先需简单讲解关於纺织织造工艺基础知识。

直至20世纪50年代,几乎所有的牛仔布都在有梭织机上织造,该类机器使用称为梭子的木制装置通过在织机的两侧之间往返地将纬纱填充。这形成所有边缘处留下一根连续纬向纱线,因此织物边缘能自行绑结而没有任何散碎线头。

二战後对牛仔布需求的日益增加迫使厂商采用大规模生产技术。 淘汰有梭织机 (不知是巧合或坚持,大多数有梭织机得以在日本被保留下来) 改用片梭,剑杆和喷气引纬等的无梭织机 (因棉纱的亲水性,喷水织造技术不适合牛仔布) 大大增加生产。就引纬率而言,无梭织机能够实现15倍的生产能力。更高的速度,更佳的效率,门幅更宽的牛仔布,更切合服装的裁片缝制。所有这些让成本大为削减。敬请留意∶所有的无梭织机只能形成假布边 (纺织术语∶非自我绑结的布边)。然而,由有梭织机织出的牛仔布确有著其独特的纹理风格。

布边牛仔面料复兴所面对的挑战是∶业界仅剩寥寥可数的有梭织机在当值。

因此,挽起裤脚管口秀出里面外侧缝线止口上布边的细致条纹(赤耳),很快成为“达人举措”。

今天牛仔布边的意义是什麽?人们会说,撸起裤管意味著“我在乎”。坚持要“赤耳单宁”的布边是对传统织造工艺的执着和致敬,是理念认同升华出的服饰符号,更是对文化的探索与沉淀。

牛仔布和牛仔服文化的故事∶(赤耳)布边的秘密,仍在继续∶

意大利特意佳 (Trinca) TNV型-有梭织机,适用於技术用布,牛仔布和环状织物。採用传统有梭引纬一脉相传的机理并予以最前沿的能量环充技术,成就无瑕疵品质织物的同时只需极低的能耗。

符号象徵:我们传承传统,但织物品质絶不妥协同时更加关怀周遭的环境。

特意佳有梭织机---承先啓后,继往开来…

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